Elizabeth Taylor was photographed wearing hers while filming Cleopatra in Rome in 1962.
However, such was their expense that fewer than 100 were actually produced across the decade. Most were made for Bulgari by the Valenza-based jewellery manufacturing company Carlo Illario e Filli. The key to their form and flexible memory was an internal white gold double spring kept in place by ingenious threaded gold pins.
Given the rarity of the original issues, it was remarkable that not one but two of the classic enamelled Bulgari Serpenti bracelet watches from c.1960 have appeared for sale within a month - the first at Adam’s (25% buyer’s premium inc VAT) in Dublin on May 14, another at Dreweatts (26% buyer’s premium) in Newbury on June 18. Both were worked in 18ct gold, diamond and enamel with the watch dial and movement concealed in the head of the snake.
One to watch
A 1960s Serpenti bracelet watch by Bulgari, €94,000 (£79,400) at Adam’s.
The Serpenti bracelet watch offered by Adam’s, coloured in aubergine brown, black and white enamel, had the added rarity of a watch by Vacheron & Constantin. Other more common watch suppliers to Bulgari at the time were Movado and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
It was accompanied by a certificate from Amanda Triossi, author and specialist on Bulgari, stating the bracelet was manufactured for and retailed by Bulgari in the 1960s and that the watch is original to the bracelet. Estimated at €40,000- 60,000, it took €94,000 (£79,400).
From the East Coast
A 1960s Serpenti bracelet watch by Bulgari, £70,000 at Dreweatts.
The example offered in Berkshire with orange, brown and white enamel accents had a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. It came from a US East Coast collection (it had been serviced and repaired by Bulgari New York in 2020) with prospective UK bidders advised that this lot would be subject to 20% import VAT on top of the hammer price.
It sold in the middle of a £60,000-80,000 estimate at £70,000.
